Member since Nov 2007 ·
88 posts · Location: Montreal Canada
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I also love tracing it out on paper, by hand, once I have all my measurements calculated. Doing it with a printer, in pieces, then taping the pieces together... no. I just take the X-Y coordinates from the crucial points, and note them by hand on a notepad. Tracing the pattern out by hand gives me a "feel" for the curves, and gives me an opportunity to change some curves on the fly, on instinct or purely for experimentation. I use big newspaper sheets for tracing paper - recycle!
I started doing the design/drafting on the computer because I was fed up with the amount of paper I was using just to create a pattern - before it was even traced out! Plus losing myself in all the calculations and stuff... So I started a dummy corset project, noted everything clearly, and then organized the process so I could more or less automate it with Excel. Corel Draw came in when I wanted to know how much fabric I was to use, and then discovered I could use it to tweak my design before tracing the pattern. I compared the resulting pattern to one I knew was good at the time, and the fit was pretty close. The technique eventually yielded my "master" pattern that I use now. And since it is in the computer, I just reopen it, jot down the X-Y figures again, and retrace it if I lose the original paper pattern.
Any tightly woven twill or other non-stretching fabric is suitable as corset fabric, in my opinion and experience. Coutil is just twill that is specially made for corsetmaking - it doesn't stretch and the tight weave resists poking through from the boning. I use a strong, moisture resistant fabric as a base layer, and for bone casings, and if I want to be fancier, something lighter and decorative for the outer facing. I get my fabric from two local fabric stores. I never pay more than $18 a meter/yard, usually it's around $12. The fancy stuff I might indulge a bit more.
If the corset is just used for training, it will eventually be "retired", so it would be acceptable to use less expensive fabric as long as it is strong and doesn't stretch. If the corset is to keep, and alter over time, then it would be worth investing a bit more.
Andy, you're right about having the least (or no) stretch horizontally. I want my corset to reshape me, not vice-versa! My preferred fabric has no stretch in any direction, so I just make sure that all the pieces are cut out parallel to each other, so it looks uniform all the way around when finished.
Jennifer.
Self-discipline and patience are the keys to a tight waist...
The event horizon cannot be reached without some squeezing and pulling...
It took me some time to get my chest and waist to this point... first I worked the waist down bit by bit then I tried a more conical chest shape - the first couple of weeks were a little difficult, but I persisted. My patience was rewarded! And I love the tight, unyielding grip it has on me. If it doesn't feel tight, it doesn't feel right!
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Miss Annalisa James
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This post was edited on 2008-04-19, 23:47 by