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Pattern Drafting Frustration
Aarrgh!
UrbanKunoichi 2007-10-05, 10:10 #1
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Subject: Pattern Drafting Frustration
I've been attempting to draft a pattern for an underbust edwardian-like corset, but absolutely CANNOT seem to get it right. Even though my measurements are correct this time, I've attempted to make the back curve inward and then out (since I'm much wider at the hips than underbust or waist), but I think I completely messed that up... Does anyone have any hints as to how to shape the pattern pieces to achieve the curved back? Thank you SO much.

I might take pics of the pieces I'm going to use in my mock up later. They look terrible!

This is MUCH, much more complicated than I had imagined.
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miss_tori_jones (Moderator) 2007-10-05, 10:45 #2
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can you post the original pattern? Number the pieces so when people reply they can reference the numbers to assist.
[Image: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/Miss_Tori_Jones/13purpleandwhitecorset.jpg]Miss Tori Jones[Image: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/Miss_Tori_Jones/12BlackRoseinRedRight.jpg]
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UrbanKunoichi 2007-10-06, 01:11 #3
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I'm almost positive that I completely botched the whole thing.... I think the huge increase in the back piece will just make it pointy in the back and not curve out. Pattern drafting is so much more confusing than I had expected! Wow!

Here it is though, it all of it's error ridden glory.

[Image: http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/6892/corsetpatternamessedupxj5.jpg]
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miss_tori_jones (Moderator) 2007-10-06, 03:31 #4
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which is your font and back

1 = center front
3 = side
5 = center back

??

if so I think we can help
[Image: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/Miss_Tori_Jones/13purpleandwhitecorset.jpg]Miss Tori Jones[Image: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/Miss_Tori_Jones/12BlackRoseinRedRight.jpg]
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UrbanKunoichi 2007-10-06, 10:53 #5
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Yup.

Thank you guys so much!

I'm drafting ANOTHER one right now which I think might be better, but I think I'll get some tips and general help first before I botch another one.
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miss_tori_jones (Moderator) 2007-10-06, 13:53 #6
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OK move your back curve away from center back

center back should be straight like center front or you will have a "tail"

instead move part to the space between #3 and #4 and most between pieces #4 and #5

I normally make my patterns with 6 pieces (3 front and 3 back) and I put my normal reduction on the side seams but add a little at the 2 back seams because of the natural (but not the normal) curve in my back.

If you have a dress maker's dummy or a good assistant you could probably draft the back with added seam, but draw on the original, then pin the pieces on on and adjust those 2 seams as needed to get the curve correct. otherwise you may have to make a few more mockups to get it just right. 

if  you have to go the full mockup route I would still draft with the extra at those seams so you could modify the seams without having to redo the entire mockup.  just put the boning in the center of the pieces then it won't be affected by your adjustments.

I hope this helps at least enough to get you started in the right direction
[Image: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/Miss_Tori_Jones/13purpleandwhitecorset.jpg]Miss Tori Jones[Image: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/Miss_Tori_Jones/12BlackRoseinRedRight.jpg]
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UrbanKunoichi 2007-10-06, 17:30 #7
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I definitely do not have a dress form or assistant. I'm in high school and working out of my dorm haha. Dress forms are the stuff of dreams... though I'm planning to invest.

Thank you so much for the tips! I had originally decided to put the extra between 2-3, 3-4, and 4-5. The top is 1.5 inches narrower (for each side) than the bottom, so I was going to put half an inch at each, but I think I'll add 1/4" at the 2-3, 1/2" at 3-4, and 3/4" at 4-5. I'm glad I hadn't fully drafted my pattern yet. I hope that works out okay.

Thank you very much!
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miss_tori_jones (Moderator) 2007-10-07, 00:05 #8
Member since Apr 2005 · 191 posts · Location: Raleigh, NC
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that just might work, you can do the entire corset in paper and tape it together just to see the general shape... that might cut the overall cost of making it better.
[Image: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/Miss_Tori_Jones/13purpleandwhitecorset.jpg]Miss Tori Jones[Image: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/Miss_Tori_Jones/12BlackRoseinRedRight.jpg]
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UrbanKunoichi 2007-10-07, 18:13 #9
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It's extremely interesting that you say that, because I've definitely already been making extremely crappy preliminary mock ups with super cheap on-the-verge-of-disintegration muslin and duct tape. I laced one up the other day and it worked pretty well but I decided to make the back curve and so had to do another one.

Stole shoelaces from my tennis shoes for lacing haha. I haven't had time to pick up some real stuff.
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miss_tori_jones (Moderator) 2007-10-07, 18:21 #10
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did you get the email I sent you here?  if not email me off the list just string this together with a period (.) in the place of the spaces and replace the (at) with @ and the (dot) with .
ms tori jones(at)gmail(dot)com

Got your email, thanks.
[Image: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/Miss_Tori_Jones/13purpleandwhitecorset.jpg]Miss Tori Jones[Image: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/Miss_Tori_Jones/12BlackRoseinRedRight.jpg]
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This post was edited on 2007-10-07, 18:37 by miss_tori_jones.
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